A Wargamer in Corfù

Corfù, the largest of the Ionian Islands, is steeped in history and offers a perfect opportunity to combine a family summer holiday with various wargaming inspirations.

Historical background

The island was once part of the Eastern Roman Empire (later known as the Byzantine Empire). During late antiquity, Corfù was raided by Vandals and Goths, while during the early medieval period, it was invaded by the Normans in 1084 during their failed attempt to conquer the Balkans. Following the Fourth Crusade, Corfu was assigned to Venice, which contested its control with the Despotate of Epirus and the Angevins. From 1386 onward, the Serenissima (Republic of Venice) maintained firm control of Corfu until its fall in 1797.

Separated from the Greek and Albanian mainland by a narrow strait only 3 to 25 kilometres wide, Corfu was a vital route for the Venetians to access their holdings in the Eastern Mediterranean. As the Venetian colonial empire declined, Corfu remained the gateway to the Adriatic Sea and served as the last major bulwark against Ottoman expansion, especially after the loss of the Morea in 1715.

In 1716, the island was the site of a memorable Ottoman siege. Thanks to the determination of the defenders, led by Count Matthias von der Schulenburg, and the concurrent Austrian victory at the Battle of Petrovaradin, this siege marked the last significant Venetian victory during the troubled final century of the Republic. We will explore this siege further in a future blog post.

Later, Corfu played a role in both World Wars: during World War I, it served as a refuge for the Serbian army, and in World War II, it became a base for Italian operations against Greece. After Italy’s capitulation on 8 September 1943, Italian troops stationed in Corfu and Cephalonia were attacked and massacred by their former German allies.

What to see

And now, on to the travel suggestions! Please note that I’ll be focusing exclusively on military-related sites—but keep in mind that Corfu offers a wealth of historical, artistic, and natural wonders beyond these.

The ruins of the early Christian basilica at Palaiopolis mark the location of the island’s original settlement, which was abandoned due to barbarian invasions and the instability of the 5th and 6th centuries AD. Some of the basilica’s frescoes and mosaics are preserved in the museum at the Old Fortress in Corfu Town. Alas, none of the military subject!

From the Byzantine period, visitors can explore the ruins of Angelokastro (Castle of the Angel), dramatically perched atop a hill overlooking the stunning beaches of Paleokastritsa (whose name, incidentally, means "Old Castle"). Located in the northern part of the western coast, the fortress was likely built under the Despotate of Epirus as a defence against Western powers such as the Venetians and Angevins. On the southeastern coast, the small castle of Gardiki dates to the same era. As of my visit in 2025, only the perimeter walls and a single gate remain, but they still give a clear impression of the site's original scale. See pictures below.

Moving to the Venetian period, in the North-East extremity, we have the fortress of Kassiopi: a former Byzantine fortress, later one of the main Venetian strongholds, allowing the control of the narrower tract of the strait. Below, the night view.

Moving to the capital city of Corfù, the Venetians built two fortresses: the Old Fortress (on the site of a previous Byzantine castle), is the main attraction of the city, and provides a perfect example of Venetian fortress in their colonial Empire, serving as a model for fortresses in other Greek islands and mainland. The bastions and the ramparts are perfectly preserved. Inside, there are some artillery guns from the late 17th - early 18th century and remarkable Venetian St. Mark lions. The new Fortress was built later, but still before the 1716 siege. Here are some pictures from the Old Fortress.

Next to the main gate of the fortress, you can also find the statue of von Schulemberg, the Saxon general who defended the island during the 1716 siege and represented the last victorious general in the history of Venice. Again, he deserves one his own post in the future.

According to the military precepts of the Age of Reason, Venice demolished the buildings in front of the Old Fortress to deny cover to any approaching enemy. Like many other features on the island, it still retains its Italian name Spianada (flattened space), similar to Verona's Spianà. This is the main square of Corfù. Funnily, exactly as in Verona, the marble pavement in front of it is called a liston.

I have to thank the page Il Viaggio di Scoperta, which in its last video shows more Venetian artefacts from Corfù... in the Tower of London! They were brought there after the Island became a British protectorate. For the curious, the video (in Italian) is here. I recommend the page to anyone passionate of Venice,

Lastly, in Gouvia, about 8 km north of the city, you can visit the remains of the Venetian arsenal. While it still deserves a visit, its conservation status is not great, and it is a shame because had a pivotal role in the naval power of Venice in the entire region, in particular again during the siege of the island: more naval wargamin opportunities!

For the moment, it is all, but as you can infer, there are many ideas which will be covered in future posts. So stay tuned!